Restaurant Review: ILIS Brings a Fresh Spin on New Nordic Cuisine in Brooklyn
Location: ILIS, 150 Green Street, Greenpoint, Brooklyn, NY
Chef: Mads Refslund
Opening Date: October 2023
Cuisine: American; Scandinavian
Price Range: $$$$ (very expensive)
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday for dinner
Reservations: Accepted
Wheelchair Access: Yes
Overview: ILIS, a restaurant in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, helmed by Danish-born chef Mads Refslund, brings a modern twist to New Nordic cuisine. Mads Refslund, known for his role in introducing New Nordic cuisine to New York at Acme, offers a blend of American and Scandinavian dishes in a unique culinary style that emphasizes natural materials and regional ingredients.
Signature Dishes: - Clam Flask: A surf clam shell vessel filled with a blend of tomato juice and dried-clam broth. - Okinawan Sweet Potato: Presented in a fluted tart shell molded from beeswax. - Chopped Whelk in Potato Foam: Served with a birch stick lashed to an operculum from the whelk's shell. - Bigeye Tuna Loin: Cured in seaweed and salt, sliced thinly like aged ham. - Sea Bream: Brushed with black-olive sauce, grilled on a wood-fueled oven. - Texas Antelope Skewers: Paired with wild-boar lardo.
Atmosphere: The restaurant features a wood-fueled grill and oven as its centerpiece within a spacious dining area marked by exposed rafters and modern art.
Critical Reception: While some dishes like the bigeye tuna and the innovative use of regional ingredients have been received positively, certain elements, such as the flavor consistency of the scallops and some courses’ dramatic presentation, have faced critique.
Other Details: - Drinks: Elaborately conceived cocktails and an extensive selection of wine and sake. - Menu Pricing: À la carte items range from $5 to $55. There are two tasting menus: a "market menu" for $195 and the "field guide" menu for $325.
Conclusion: ILIS has potential with its creative concept and memorable dishes, though it still has room to refine its execution to fully captivate its audience.