Xinomavro: Greece's Noble Grape
Greek winemaking is undergoing a revival, with the indigenous grape Xinomavro playing a leading role. Xinomavro, native to Greece, is renowned for its versatility, producing everything from age-worthy reds and sparkling wines to whites and rosés. Known for its high acidity and assertive tannins when young, it ages to reveal vibrant red cherry, tomato, and herbal notes.
The grape is primarily cultivated in regions such as Naoussa in the hills of Macedonia. Apostolos Thymiopoulos, a prominent winemaker in Trilofos, produces various expressions of Xinomavro, with his Xinomavro Jeunes Vignes being notably popular. Meanwhile, Amyndeon’s Alpha Estate combines French winemaking techniques with Greek traditions, producing wines like the Xinomavro Amyndeon PDO Single Vineyard Hedgehog 2021.
Domaine Karanika, also in Amyndeon, specializes in sparkling Xinomavro using the traditional method. Founders Laurens M Hartman-Karanika and Annette van Kampen highlight the grape's ability to reflect the soil, working with ancient, ungrafted vines. Their Brut Cuvée Speciale Xinomavro 2022 and Extra Cuvée de Reserve 2017 have gained acclaim for their distinctive flavors.
In London, the wholesaler Indigo Wine collaborated with Naoussa winemaker Markos Markovitis to create Alkemi, a Xinomavro rosé with notes of pink grapefruit. Xinomavro continues to gain international recognition and is featured in the expansive wine selection at Oma, a "Greek-ish" restaurant in Borough, London.
For more information, visit maltbyandgreek.com, thewinesociety.com, and theatreofwine.com.