During New York Fashion Week on 10 February 2024, Coach showcased its Fall/Winter 2025 collection at the historic Park Avenue Armory. Spearheaded by designer Stuart Vevers, who has been with the brand since 2013, the collection elucidates a distinctive evolution of Coach, merging youthful aesthetics with foundational brand heritage.
The collection was noted for its blend of nostalgia and a contemporary outlook, tactfully balancing elements of craftsmanship and rebellion. Noteworthy themes included luxury intertwined with sustainability, affirming Coach’s significant position within the American fashion milieu over the past eight decades. The silhouettes presented emphasised oversized trousers that pooled elegantly at the ankles, juxtaposed against more fitted knitwear and outerwear. The palette of the collection paid homage to traditional Coach colours, featuring rich tans, chocolate browns, and muted blacks enhanced with metallic knits and vibrant, playful accessories that evoke early 2000s trends.
Outerwear took a prominent role, featuring repurposed bombers and plush shearling trenches, which introduced depth to the collection's narrative. Vevers described the embodiment of a youthful versatility within the silhouettes, which radiated a sense of contradiction. The use of argyle patterns, distressed details, and exquisite Lurex knits invoked a vintage charm while simultaneously incorporating modern elements like distressed sweatshirts and delicate negligees to maintain a balance of old-world romance with ready-to-wear sensibilities.
At the heart of the show was the debut of the new Twin Pocket Bag, a contemporary reinterpretation of a design from 1968. Other returning bags, such as the Brooklyn and Empire bags, appeared in shrunken sizes and were crafted from vegetable-tanned Loved Leather and shearling, featuring graffiti details that pay tribute to New York City's artistic vibrancy. The Times Square Tabby was introduced in beaded satin, catering to the after-hours audience without sacrificing practicality.
The footwear collection further complemented the ready-to-wear line, with highlights including the Soho Sneaker crafted in silver suede and adorned with leopard print. Other designs, such as stuffed animal slippers, block-heeled loafers, and buckle boots, married whimsy with functional design, while jewellery showcased a utility-inspired industrial edge.
Vevers underscored the importance of engaging with the younger generation, stating, “you have to talk to the younger generation… it’s about listening to them. What I hear most from them is about self-expression. People being who they want to be and using fashion to give them that confidence,” as mentioned in The Guardian. This refreshing perspective highlighted the need for adaptability within the fashion industry.
Moreover, the show featured a live performance by the Brooklyn band Nation of Language, contributing to an atmosphere that resonated with a youthful, vibrant energy. Coach's resurgence comes at a time when the luxury market is experiencing a slowdown. Yet, Coach has emerged as a frontrunner in popularity, ranking as the fifth hottest brand according to Lyst, following notable names like Miu Miu and Prada. The brand's Brooklyn bag was also recognised as the hottest product of the quarter, underscoring its widespread appeal.
In response to criticisms regarding soaring prices within the luxury sector, Coach has committed to maintaining more accessible pricing, as articulated by CEO Todd Kahn, who expressed concern about consumer strain due to inflated costs. The brand’s strategy includes not only improved pricing but also a commitment to sustainability. Coach has connected with eco-conscious younger consumers through initiatives such as repairs, upcycling, and their Coachtopia sub-brand, which emphasises circularity by utilising waste and recycled leather.
In conclusion, Coach's Fall/Winter 2025 collection encapsulates a cultural zeitgeist characterised by self-expression, nostalgia, and a commitment to sustainability, affirming its enduring relevance in modern fashion.
Source: Noah Wire Services