H&M has announced the introduction of AI models that will allow human models to effectively ‘book their twins’ for fashion shoots, enabling them to work simultaneously for different brands at separate locations. This significant development in the fashion industry reflects the rapid advancement of AI technology, which can replicate human likenesses with remarkable accuracy, including mimicking physical movements and vocal patterns. Mathilda Gvarliani, a model involved in this initiative, described her AI replica as “like me, without the jet-lag,” during an interview with The Business of Fashion.
Jörgen Andersson, the chief creative officer at H&M, articulated the company's vision, stating that this technology is intended to "enhance our creative process and how we work with marketing but fundamentally not change our human-centred approach in any way." This new venture is not isolated to H&M; other brands like Levi's and Hugo Boss have also been exploring AI fashion models. However, the integration of AI in this manner has sparked significant debate and criticism within the industry.
Concerns largely centre around the potential implications for human models. Many fear that the emergence of AI ‘twins’ could lead to a diminished need for real models, placing them at risk of exploitation in a rapidly evolving job market. Five years ago, model and tech entrepreneur Sinead Bovell warned in a Vogue article that AI could ultimately jeopardise real jobs in the modelling sector, stating, "If a model gives their consent to use their likeness somewhere, it can enhance the actual AI model and the data centre that the company uses, which could accelerate automation. Models may get even more exploited."
H&M has stated that each model would be compensated with a negotiated fee whenever their AI counterpart is utilised in marketing strategies. However, there remains uncertainty over what constitutes fair compensation for the use of a digital twin, questioning whether rates will be standardised or vary from model to model.
As the fashion industry evolves, concerns have also been raised regarding the broader impact on creatives associated with fashion shoots, such as photographers, makeup artists, and lighting personnel. Predictions indicate that while high-profile models may see substantial financial gains, such as payouts reaching millions of dollars, rising models employed by e-commerce brands like ASOS and Zara could face diminishing opportunities.
In light of these developments, the European Union is set to enact an AI Act in 2026 that mandates labelling of AI-generated images. H&M has expressed its readiness to watermark images featuring AI models, while in the United States, the Fashion Workers' Act, part of The Model Alliance, will require models' consent for AI usage beginning this June.
Ingo Nolden, Gvarliani’s agent in Germany, shared his concerns, highlighting a trend of decreasing job security, especially for entry-level positions. He recounted his initial endorsement of an AI project involving one of his models, which he retracted due to apprehensions about the potential loss of control over image licensing.
Conversely, some industry figures view the advent of AI as an opportunity for increased diversity. Michael Musandu, founder of the AI model agency Lalaland, argued that this technology can help foster inclusivity by showcasing models of various shapes, sizes, and ethnicities, addressing issues that have historically persisted in the modelling realm.
Yet, AI does not always guarantee greater inclusivity. In a recent instance highlighting this issue, Taiwanese-American model Shereen Wu publicly criticised an agency for altering her image to make her appear white.
In anticipation of potential backlash regarding its AI twins, an H&M spokesperson acknowledged the complexity of the situation, stating, “While we understand that this will spark opinions, discussions, and uncertainty, we are humble in acknowledging that we do not hold all the answers at this point.”
Models affiliated with H&M appear generally supportive of their likenesses being used for digital replication, as this could mean earning additional income with less demand for physical presence. Nonetheless, the rising adoption of AI-generated models presents challenges for emerging talent and those aspiring to advance in the competitive modelling industry landscape.
Source: Noah Wire Services