Finding the perfect pair of jeans can often be an arduous journey, littered with disappointments and mismatched sizes. This quest seems to particularly challenge women, who frequently encounter difficulty in finding denim that accommodates their unique body shapes. Anna Foster, founder of E.L.V. Denim, addresses this pressing issue while simultaneously championing sustainable fashion practices.
Foster, who has spent 25 years in the fashion industry as a stylist, established E.L.V. Denim to create jeans specifically designed for women's bodies. “We’ve been taking a shape that was designed as workwear for a man and trying to fit it on a woman,” Foster explained, highlighting the inherent mismatch in traditional designs. Women’s bodies, often more “circular” with distinct curves and waistlines, require a different approach that standard jean production has not historically addressed.
The environmental impact of denim production is another critical concern Foster endeavours to mitigate. Approximately five billion pairs of jeans are produced each year, with many discarded within a year of being purchased. Levi’s indicates that making one pair of their iconic 501s consumes around 3,781 litres of water, which equates to the duration of a five-hour shower. To combat this, all E.L.V. denim is crafted from upcycled materials sourced from vintage warehouses and the Textile Recycling Association, diverting these jeans from landfills. “The purpose of E.L.V. Denim is to try to be a beautiful solution for everything that no one else wants,” she stated.
E.L.V. utilises a unique design process, stitching jeans together with a front seam for a more cylindrical fit, which Foster considers “essential for a woman’s body.” Additionally, the jeans are constructed with seam allowances, ensuring longevity as they can be adjusted over time to accommodate changes in fit. “You can buy this jean when you’re 18 and you can still wear them when you’re 80,” Foster remarked, emphasising the brand's focus on sustainability and lifelong wear.
The brand operates out of a studio in Stoke Newington, London, aptly named E.L.V., which stands for East London Vintage. The studio not only produces jeans but also features a range of other items made from upcycled materials, including patchwork leather jackets and reimagined shirts. Following the opening of its first pop-up shop on Great Portland Street on April 9, customers can experience the brand’s latest and signature collections while participating in events such as panel discussions on sustainability and film screenings.
Under Foster’s leadership, E.L.V. Denim also engages in collaborations with other brands, such as The Outnet, producing items from leftover stock and crafting a capsule collection for Liberty London, which will incorporate upcycled Liberty print silk scarves into new designs. Additionally, Foster is looking to expand her business model into consultancy, aiming to assist other brands in creating sustainable collections from textile waste.
Foster views upcycling as a positive counter to other forms of recycling that often involve harmful chemicals. She believes upcycling allows for innovative and aesthetically pleasing design that provides long-lasting quality. “All recycling, no matter how hi-tech it is, uses chemicals, and there’s always a toxic output,” she said, reinforcing her dedication to eco-friendly practices.
E.L.V. jeans start from £275, with all production taking place in east London, employing five local ateliers with fair wage practices. Foster asserts, “We refuse to compromise for profit,” noting that customers desire a meaningful purchase.
Foster’s sentiments extend to the type of denim used, critiquing the prevalent use of stretch denim, which incorporates elastane and deteriorates over time. She accurately identifies that many women who struggle to find well-fitting jeans typically resort to stretch options, perpetuating the idea that such fits are necessary. However, she contests this belief, saying, “It’s a myth that if you’re a certain size, you can’t wear rigid denim.”
Her most popular styles include The Freya—a wide-legged flare—and the brand’s wider range, accommodating a variety of body types. Foster also humourously acknowledged the cultural reference of the “Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants,” expressing a desire to get a pair of her jeans to actress Blake Lively.
While E.L.V. Denim has introduced some trend-inspired pieces, Foster maintains a focus on timeless designs rather than ephemeral fashions. “The rest of your outfit can be a nod to a trend, but your jeans are your constant,” she explained succinctly, reiterating her commitment to producing jeans that stand the test of time and resonate with wearers’ identities.
Source: Noah Wire Services