Simon Holloway, the newly appointed creative director of Dunhill, recently shared his thoughts on the brand's evolution and its significance in the world of menswear. Speaking to L'Officiel Philippines, Holloway expressed a deep personal connection to the role, stating, “It was like connecting with something my father could have aspired to.” He revealed that his father, who travelled extensively for work, represented a certain ideal of Britishness, often embodying this through his attire of blue blazers. For Holloway, Dunhill has long been a benchmark for excellence in menswear.
Dunhill has a storied history that intertwines with the development of British culture, particularly in relation to the automobile and the associated demand for stylish accessories and clothing. Holloway described how the brand transformed after World War II, moving away from traditional Savile Row style to create a more relaxed and versatile menswear collection. While classic black tie remains influential, as demonstrated by notable figures such as Frank Sinatra and Truman Capote, who famously wore elegant suits to his Black and White Ball in 1966, today’s Dunhill offerings showcase an updated approach.
Holloway stated, "The codes of a British wardrobe in terms of sensibility and colours intertwine with a level of lightweight tailoring derived from almost 40 years of production in Italy.” This integration has resulted in jackets crafted from the lightest canvas available, featuring pronounced yet unpadded shoulders. He highlighted that the silhouettes reflect traditional English style without adopting the extended lengths typical of some international counterparts. Instead, they offer a harmonious balance that is at once sporty and relaxed.
A particularly intriguing point raised by Holloway was the changing demographic of suit wearers. He noted the emergence of a new generation of individuals who have not only never worn a suit but, in many cases, have not even seen one worn by their parents or grandparents. This gap in exposure has led to a burgeoning interest among young people to explore tailored clothing. “They’re not obligated to wear a jacket and tie; it becomes their choice, a way of expressing themselves,” he commented, referring to this trend as a counterculture movement reacting against the extremes of casual fashion. Holloway observed that in London, groups of young people are not only donning vintage suits but are also opting for custom pieces or contemporary designs from brands like Dunhill, often pairing a velvet jacket with jeans and freely mixing styles without rigid rules—a trend that he finds particularly inspiring.
Source: Noah Wire Services