Orthopaedic-style footwear, traditionally valued for comfort rather than aesthetics, is experiencing a notable resurgence in fashion circles this Spring and Summer. Brands such as Dr Scholls, known for their practical designs originally intended to alleviate foot pain from conditions like bunions, are now highly sought after by style enthusiasts, particularly amid the revival of 1970s bohemian trends.
The most renowned offering from Dr Scholls is the Pescura sandal, recognised for its flat wooden sole and single leather strap across the toes. First designed in 1956, vintage adverts boast that the shoe "shapes, tones, and firms your legs with every step you take," a claim rooted in the shoe’s design which requires wearers to grip with their toes due to the minimalist strap configuration. Traditionally, the Pescura was seen as unfashionable and associated with 'hippy-types', but this perception is shifting significantly.
In recent collaborations, Dr Scholls has partnered with high-end fashion houses to create elevated versions of their classic shoes, blending comfort with luxury. One such collaboration is with Balenciaga, which released a line described as “ugly chic,” including six different pairs, where some designs add high heels to the Pescura silhouette. The most expensive shoes in this Balenciaga x Scholl range are priced at around £625. Demna Gvasalia, former creative director of Balenciaga, said the aim was to create “the most comfortable heels ever made.” These models feature both stiletto and lower heel options, incorporating materials like cork for enhanced comfort.
Another notable partnership is with Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, a diffusion line from the prestigious Italian label Alberta Ferretti. This collaboration produced Mary Jane clogs, characterised by thick wooden soles, enclosed toes, and double leather straps with buckles. These clogs, retailing at approximately £600, come in colour variants including black and brown. According to the brand, they are “characterised by a wooden structure and a leather upper with double strap, featuring a design reminiscent of the seventies.” The black option offers a “glam-rock style,” while the leather variant presents a “bohemian vibe.”
Fashion editor and ceramicist Deborah Brett shared her personal journey with the style in an interview with The Telegraph. She recounted that when she was younger, Dr Scholls shoes, particularly the Pescura with its cream-coloured strap, were viewed as “uncool.” She referenced a German term “oko,” translating to “eco,” used to describe a somewhat unfashionable or outdated look. However, Brett revealed she now proudly wears her mother’s vintage Dr Scholls, noting their durability as she has not yet needed to have them resoled. She described styling them with capri pants, A-line skirts, or a white linen suit, elevating outfits from “classically elegant to fashion-forward elegant.”
Celebrity influence has also played a role in the shoes’ comeback. Actress Sarah Jessica Parker was spotted wearing Dr Scholls sandals on the set of the television series "And Just Like That" last year, prompting a wave of positive reactions on social media. Fans expressed eagerness to adopt the look, with one Instagram commenter declaring, “Loving the Dr. Scholls,” and another lamenting, “The Dr Scholl’s! I’m so jealous.” Designer Isaac Mizrahi notably asked on social media, “Where do you get the Dr Scholl’s?”
While orthopaedic-style shoes were once sold primarily through pharmacies for their practicality and comfort, their re-entry into high fashion via collaborations with prestigious designers is making such footwear a prominent trend. The combination of heritage design, comfort technology, and designer partnerships has revitalised these once unfashionable shoes, positioning them as a chic yet functional choice for the coming seasons.
Source: Noah Wire Services