A significant shift towards recycling polyester textiles could provide a vital pathway to enhance social and environmental sustainability, according to a recent study conducted by Systemiq. This movement, however, hinges on the implementation of substantial governmental reforms to create an effective recycling ecosystem.

The impact of abandoned and discarded apparel poses a severe risk, contributing to the worrying rise of microplastics contaminating groundwater, soil, and even rainfall. The scale of this issue is daunting for the global textile sector; however, a robust recycling approach could be one part of a larger solution. Despite the availability of advanced recycling technologies, the cost remains prohibitively high, making recycled polyester 2.6 times more expensive than its virgin counterpart. Currently, out of the approximate 125 million tonnes of natural and synthetic fibres consumed annually in the textile industry, less than 1% is sourced from recycling.

According to the Systemiq analysis, closing the price gap between recycled and virgin polyester may enable Europe to achieve a tenfold increase in textile-to-textile recycling of polyester by 2035. Such a leap would necessitate new waste sorting processes and stringent regulatory measures. At the heart of these efforts is depolymerisation—the process that breaks polymers down into their fundamental components, or monomers, which can then be repurposed to manufacture new materials. This method stands out for its ability to handle blended, coloured, or degraded textile waste, presenting a viable solution even for the most challenging materials.

Projecting forward, the amount of recycled polyester produced in Europe through depolymerisation could surge from the anticipated 30,000 tonnes per year by 2028 to about 300,000 tonnes annually by 2035. This significant increase underscores depolymerisation’s efficacy over other recycling methods, particularly as it generates substantially fewer emissions compared to the production of virgin polymers.

The study highlights the importance of introducing an ambitious Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) system, which would mandate European textile retailers to bear the costs associated with product collection, sorting, and recycling. The anticipated EPR charge of around US $284 per tonne by 2028, rising to US $374 by 2035, would enhance the market competitiveness of recycled polyester by offsetting a considerable portion of recycling costs. Implementing further measures, such as mandating that new products incorporate recycled materials and tightening regulations on textile waste trade, would also prove beneficial.

If these policies are enacted, Europe could pave the way for a thriving circular economy, decreasing greenhouse gas emissions while simultaneously creating jobs. While recycling polyester is not an all-encompassing solution to the problem of textile waste, it is crucial for managing non-reusable polyester refuse. Initiatives aiming to innovate recycling methodologies, such as the LIFE POLITEX project, further bolster these efforts by focusing on the depolymerisation of polyester into its basic constituents, thereby ensuring higher quality secondary raw materials.

Additionally, advancements in recycling technologies, such as the low-temperature, low-pressure method developed by Petshka for converting polyester waste into polyol polyester, illustrate the industry's potential for innovation. This environmentally friendly approach not only minimises pollution but also enhances the recyclability of polyester across various industrial applications.

The road ahead for textile recycling is challenging but promising. Systemiq’s recommendations, which include enhancing the infrastructure for collection and sorting, alongside scaling up recycling capabilities, have the potential to reshape the polyester market substantially. Through effective implementation of these strategies, Europe could not only reduce its reliance on fossil fuels but also emerge as a leader in sustainable textile practices.

Ultimately, fostering a circular economy for polyester textiles may not only mitigate the burgeoning problem of textile waste but also herald a new era in sustainable manufacturing, driving economic growth and environmental stewardship alike.

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Source: Noah Wire Services