Edeline Lee’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, presented at London Fashion Week, marked a striking exploration of fringe and volume as central themes, underscored by a disciplined approach to proportion and structure. The Canadian-British designer, who trained under luminaries Alexander McQueen in London and John Galliano in Paris, showcased her mastery of symmetry and form in a way that blended boldness with wearability.

A defining moment came when the Princess of Wales was seen wearing Lee’s asymmetrically pleated plait midi skirt during a public visit to Cornwall, a move that brought Lee’s work into the mainstream spotlight. This skirt, crafted from mid-weight Italian Georgette Champion fabric, features a deep front pleat and gentle flare, epitomising Lee’s commitment to versatility and precise detail. The piece’s balance of unique design and practical wearability reflects the ethos behind many garments in the collection, which is made by hand in England and tailored to a wide range of body types.

The collection itself was a study in controlled volume. Opening with a grey dress that ballooned at the hip before tapering elegantly at the hem, it set the tone for a series of looks where exaggerated silhouettes were tempered with internal structure. This balance ensured that despite dramatic shapes and the presence of movement-enhancing trims like fringe, the garments remained grounded in functionality. The use of pastel hues—lilac, mint green, and sky blue—lent a fresh spring palette to the line, punctuated by strategic introductions of deeper cobalt, crisp whites, and silver accents that added a subtle but impactful contrast.

Lee’s innovative approach to fabric and form was evident not only in the shape and volume but in the tactile quality of the materials she chose. Resilient fabrics carried generous hems and supported silhouettes that held their shape without collapsing, even after hours of wear. Fringe detailing was incorporated thoughtfully, edged into hems and often paired with simple, unadorned bodices to maintain a sense of refinement rather than excess. High-necked tops and ruffled collars provided a minimalist contrast to the busy movement below the waist, creating a deliberate tension between expansion and restraint throughout the collection.

Further distinguishing this season, Lee introduced knitwear for the first time, utilising sustainable FSC-certified viscose to reinterpret her signature shapes, adding a new dimension to her design language. The show itself evolved dramatically, beginning with polished pieces like a mock-neck charmeuse gown and a cap-sleeve shift in bubble flou jacquard, before transitioning into a kinetic spectacle with elements like sashes unraveling into trailing tassels and hems floating on hoops. This theatricality was enhanced by a smoke-filled atmosphere and a Charli XCX soundtrack, signalling both a technical and creative evolution.

Edeline Lee’s work continues to embody the concept of the ‘Future Lady’—a vision aimed at empowering modern women through clothing that offers presence, movement, and confidence. By anchoring trend-forward elements such as fringe and volume in refined tailoring and a carefully curated colour palette, Lee has crafted a collection that transcends mere fashion statements. Instead, her pieces serve as a commentary on the power of proportion and the way expansive forms can frame and enhance the wearer, rather than overwhelm.

This balance between drama and practicality appears set to influence the coming season significantly, as Lee’s collection proves that volume and embellishment, when thoughtfully executed, can provide women not only with style but also space and presence.

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Source: Noah Wire Services